Wednesday, September 22nd.

I had a close call today. A really, really close call even. I'll not spill any details, though it all included two cars in high speed, probably racing each other on a way too narrow a road, and a Norwegian bicyclist on a long tour coming the opposite direction. The biker, me, and the bicycle ended up in the ditch. Where the vehicles ended up I have no idea, though I wish....No, I'll leave it be. I'm perfectly unharmed and the bags on the bike took the blow on Lucky 2's behalf, meaning everything is ok.
Otherwise I've continued on my way down South and South East today in Portugal. It's still a rather smooth bicycling terrain though I imagine it to more of a test of my uphill climbing skills and shape as I once again enter Spain. And, today the road signs have been really great. Once I got away from the beaches and hotels I'll be darned if there wasn't all of a sudden good and proper signs telling me where to go.
I don't have much else to tell today I'm afraid. "We must not håpe it will bli det same i morra" (terribly translated,immebecome nsely incorrect quote of Gjertrud Sand)

Today's stage: Fatima - Montemor-O-Novo 169 km 

Tuesday, September 21st.

After my update and having posted yesterday's blog there was a petitioned council meeting of DagEirik's Head-Shoulder-Knee-andToe A/S LTD & Co. Meaning I had a small consultation with me, myself and I. What a whine! No one forced me into doing this. I'm doing it out of my own free will, and it is, in no way a small privilege to be able to live the adventure the way I am, right now. Get a grip of yourself man!
And it helped.
Today, even if not having had a single clue as to my whereabouts the first three hours, I've really enjoyed myself. I've mostly been unable to, so far,  decipher the Portuguese road sign code, then I'll take that as an bonus challenge. There's signs everywhere down here, and few if any say where the road is, where itgoes or leads. Or maybe it's me simply not getting it...
The first part of today's stage consisted of both flat land and roads. As I came more and closer  inland, it became more sculptured. The final 25 kilometres had almost a climbing feeling. 
Thanks to the flatness and thereby efficient beginning of the day I reached Fatima as early as about 4.00 pm. I have to admit, I was surprised. Fatima was not at all the way I imagined it to be. Not in a negative way, per see, though very different.
Since I now am in Fatima, all my destinations as a pilgrim on the tour are visited. Tomorrow I'll begin on the last 750 kilometres to Gibraltar and the finishing flag. 

Today's stage: Aveiro - Fatima 149 km 

Monday, September 20th.

I've had an awful day today. Not that anything terrible has happened, though my mood has been completely down the drain, and then some. I remember having had a day almost the same in Northern Sweden somewhere about a month and a half ago, then today must have been worse. And I've had no reason to be grumpy today. I've bicycled, almost, all day along the North Portuguese riviera. Beautiful and completely flat.  And the wind has been, even if not straight behind me, at least slightly sideways. The biking has been smooth today. Well, except when I tried finding my way out of the city of Porto, of course. It was nothing short of impossible all together, and I finally had to take to metro in order to get out of town. Now that was nice, in a crowded metro, all sweaty with a bicycle having seen nothing but rain for 6.000 kilometres, and in a mood being completely off...Not. At least I got out of the city on the right side of.
 When I eventually arrived at Aveiro I was not in the mood to camp outdoors.  I checked into a hotel. A fairly expensive one at that. And it had a tub in the bathroom. After having camped out for seven weeks, after hostels and Refugio-showers, it was an indescribable luxurious feeling to have a nice, hot bath. And, after having read a few pages in my book, the following shower and a nice meal, I felt my mood approving, at least slightly.
Having had such an easy day on the bicycle today, I managed to end today's stage at more than 180 kilometres, meaning I have a fair chance of reaching Fatima as early as tomorrow.
I get the feeling at might become only a short visit there as well. 

Today's stage: Ãncora - Aveiro 182 km 

Sunday, September 19th.

Sunday and a day off. Well, almost. It's been a day off in the way of me having had a Sunday stroll om the bike today. From one coffee shop to the other in a away. Along the most fabulous beaches I've ever seen. Halfway today's little stroll I crossed the border into Portugal and am therefor in country number ten of this years tour. I am of course going to leave Portugal eventually and return into Spain, then it doesn't count as yet another country. The passing week has been kind of special to me. Beginning as I arrived to Estella last Sunday, until yesterday, I've followed the Camino, more or less. In an odd sort of way I've felt out of place, not a part of the actual life right there.  Even though many bicycle the rout and are more than happy to do so, I' more convinced than ever before of the feeling that a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela ought to be walked.
And, I have to say, it was a worn out bicyclist heading out of Santiago de Compostela yesterday. First and foremost I was aggravated I had not made enough of a background check on the relay and arrival of the staff of pilgrims before setting off down South. It would had saved me a lot of frustration. Then, on the other hand, two days in the crowded town it is right now may had been  a little bit too much for me, now as I soon am on my way back home again.
I have to, by the way send a greeting and a big thank you to Torhild Borgersen and Elisabeth Holm who sponsored me in the "A-tenner-a-day!" action, ten kronor a day on the tour.  Now those are two great girls!
As I write this I am in Portugal. Well enough, only a few kilometres inland, though, I am here. the summer is in full bloom and it's full of life at the camping ground where I stopped for the night. I have approximately 1.000 kilometres to go to Gibraltar, and my goal is to arrive at some point next Sunday. This means, starting tomorrow I'll bike a little bit more than 140 kilometres a day, which shouldn't be a problem. As I've said previously, I've never ever before been to Portugal, though the Coastal line looks as if it's an easy route to go. At least according to my map. Though, yes, I am beginning to become worn out, after seven weeks and 6.000 kilometres on a bicycle, I see no reason as to why it should not go as planned. Either way, it's no big deal. My flight is booked next Thursday, then it would be perfection to get some time by the pool in Calahonda before going back home again. To begin with I have a few days on the bike ahead of me before arriving at the last pilgrim destination, Fatima. I count on arriving  Wednesday.

Today's stage("Sunday stroll"): Baiona (ES) - Ãncora (P) 49 km 

Saturday, September 18th.

Sometimes well, quite often even, things don't work out as planned. Especially when being on a trip. Yesterday the plan was to have a good night's sleep on Monte do Gozo, to have a nice, slow bike ride into the centre of the old town of Santiago de Compostela, find a fairly decent room at a hotel, and enjoy a day or two right here. It went down hill from the very beginning.  I've shared room with the most smelly people I've ever met last night. The stench was bad enough to make it impossible to sleep altogether. When I tried suggesting we ought to have opened a window just a tad it was immediately rejected, in very determined Spanish (I think). The result being me hardly having caught any sleep, and a number of times getting up and outside in the middle of the night to catch a breath of fresh air. It was an exhausted bicyclist emerging in front of the Cathedral at the greyish crack of dawn. And, I have myself to blame being tired, since when having had the photography taken, with self-timer and tripod, I managed to drop the camera on the ground and smash it. Luckily enough I have the camera on my cellphone, though it's not the same.
I went to have some breakfast while waiting for everything to open. When I returned to the Cathedral an hour later I no longer was alone in town. The line to get in through the Holy Door already was at least two hundred meters long. I asked  one of the guards how long I had to stay in line in order to get in, and he thought it would take at least two and a half hours. I went in the usual door instead. I tried, in all possible ways to find something out at all about the relay of the staff of pilgrims, and no one I talked to had even heard of it, and not a word of it being the final destination and end point here today. The only place they might have had a clue was at the office of pilgrims in town,where they make the Compostel to the newly arrived pilgrims, but then, the line to get inside was even longer than the one to the Cathedral. I had to drop it completely. After a few hours in town I realised this was not the day I was supposed to be in the town of Jacob, so I climbed my bike and headed Southwest. I will simply return at some other point in time.

Today's stage: Santiago de Compostela - Baiona 118 km

Friday, September 17th.

Today has been an incredibly comfortable day on the bike. Out of hundreds, surely, coffee shops on my way I must have visited half of them, I've been in a real easygoing mood today. Much of this of course due to the fact I've only had 70 kilometres to bicycle today. My only goal is to arrive at Santiago de Compostela before Saturday. You see, I've had a secret agenda consisting of being there this very Saturday. And all along there's been a few doubts of maybe, maybe not making it in time. Now I can state with certainty that it will be fine, since I'm sitting here, on Monte de Gozo, 6 kilometres away from the Cathedral.
The thing is, February the 25th a pilgrim relay begun in  Stiklestad, in the shape of  a pilgrim's staff handed over from one to the other all the way throughout Europe. I myself was in different ways engaged in the part of the relay passing through Vestfold and over to Hirtshals. Therefor I think it would be immensely lucky should I reach to be in place as the staff tomorrow arrives at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. And I am. It is, really, quite incredible it fitted in so well with my travel plans.
Most likely there will be a day, or two off in Santiago. It depends on how the chances are of finding accommodation in town. The thing is, there's so many pilgrims out and about, and naturally, they all need a place to spend the night which may make it hard. We'll see what happens. I've been here once before and I'm surely going to return so there is either way no crisis to be had.
I've by now bicycled about 5810 kilometres, meaning had I decided on the shortest route from the North Cape to Gibraltar, I would had arrived by now. Having rerouted around Lourdes and of course Santiago de Compostela, I  have 1200 more kilometres to go. Mostly the rest of the route will be throughout Portugal. I've never experienced it until now and I'm really excited to finally be able to. I've had plenty of positive feedback on Portugal.
First and foremost.though it's the relay of the staff of pilgrim's in Santiago de Compostela being on the agenda.

Today's stage: Ligonde - Monto do Gozo (Santiago de Compostela) 74 km 

Thursday, September 16th.

As I was going to collect and fetch my  bikers clothing this morning, having left it to dry on the clothes line I had myself a real surprise. And not a good one. The sweater I've enjoyed wearing so much, sponsored  by Dag Erik Pedersen, and with the text: "Aldri god alene" across the chest and back was good. With the picture of Pedersen's nice face and all. Well, I'll in no way suggest there are thieves on the Camino, though someone took the wrong sweater along. On my behalf, it was a shame since I now only have one bikers sweater left, though the advantage must be Dag Erik being able to spread his word out in our big world...
I believe this day's stage has been the one so far with the most long hills. A few hours into my day I climbed across the O'Cebreiro. A well known mountain top of the walkers of the Camino, and often counted as the heaviest of them all. I'm able to confirm it's at least as heavy on a bicycle as it as by foot.
And, after a long down hill slope, it went all the way up again before it went back down hill. And up again, and down hill before finally going back up hill for the last time today. Puh...Luckily enough, it's been a little bit on the cloudy side today, making the temperature perfect for more heavy bicycling. Those imagining Spain to be a flat landscape and never ending beaches ought to experience Galicia. It's packed with high mountains and low valleys. And it's amazingly beautiful.
When it was time to find somewhere to spend the night it proved itself to be a difficult task. I visited four different hostels and they all were  "completo", full. Not as if it was a surprise, nor a catastrophe since I had my tent. And in the small village of Ligonde I suddenly spotted a tent on a small piece of grass. I stopped, mostly to ask if i could set my own tent up, then it didn't happen. It was a hostel, Fuente Del Peregino, managed by the Spanish Christian organisation Agape. And not only did they have a bed, they also gave me a wonderful dinner and breakfast in the morning. And the price? None. Eventually I was allowed to make a donation, though it was to begin with for free. Dinner and breakfast included. Those of you ever walking the Camino, remember to pass by the Fuente Del Peregino in Ligone. And remember to make a small donation.

Today's stage: Ponferrada - Ligonde 147 km 

Wednesday, September 15th.

Today's stage was really rough. Well, not lenghtwise. Not the most hilled, although not far from. When setting off at the crack of dawn, my initial thought was to bike the 140 kilometres to Rabanals. Then when having passed Leõn, noticing the massive flow of pilgrims on their way, walking, I had to deliberate with myself. Two cups of coffee and a croissant (surely croissant number onehundred, or so) later , in Astorga I decided to turn away from the Camino. By doing so I missed both Cruz de Ferro and Thomas in Manjarin, though I wanted to avoid  taking up a bed for the night from a walking pilgrim. I chose to go by the  main road around Monto de Leon, and down to Ponferrada where I know there are many more beds than on higher ground. And yes, when saying I went around, do take this with a grain of salt. I do bicycle around the highest mountaintops, but it's nowhere close to flat. I was more than worn out as I arrived at tonight destination. When I made my way into the hostel of pilgrims in  Ponferrada, a Spanish TV team greeted me, asking if they may have an interview. Of course they could, then it wasn't the most at depth interview altogether. "What's your name, where do you come from, and why are you here?" Oh well. At least I was on TV...
Tomorrow I'll arrive into Galicia. Thus there are two pretty great stages, and days to Santiago de Compostela.

Today's stage: Ledigos - Ponferrada 174 km 

Tuesday, September 14th.

Now  it's over and done with,  the worst period of cold and freezing temperatures. Meaning, it's still as unbelievably cold in the morning. I haven't kept up with the thermometer, though the air as I breathe mist the first few hours in the morning. The sun rising makes it more pleasant. To put it mildly. And that's great. I like the warmth a lot, and as long as you make sure to get enough fluids there's no problem. Enough fluids in my case, on days like this, is about 7 - 8 liters. Water. Then considering I'm active, with the exception of a few breaks, for 10 - 12 hours.
Before falling asleep last night, I was set on having the homepage up and running the morning after and not to leave  Burgos, just about 40 kilometres ahead until it did- I was fully prepared to spend most of the day in Burgos. It proved itself to be the one actual problem I had suspected before hand and I was on my way half an hour later. I was proud of myself. The landscape between Burgos and Leon is known among pilgrims as the "Meseta". The Meseta is a plain, and I really mean plain,  reaching across the area between the two cities. Here it is, periodically as barren and dead the few trees still remaining are marked out on the map. This means it can be a challenge to find shade up here, 700 metres above sea level. 
The advantage of the bicycle is me flying across the plain in a little more than a day, while the ones walking must spend a week in doing so.Before high noon tomorrow, the Meseta is history.

Today's stage: Villafranca Montes de Oca - Ledigos 148 km 

Monday, September 13th.

I experienced something incredibly strange today. To bike along the Camino de Santiago, and observe all and everything from a side point of view has been weird. This path, or road having been such a huge part of my life the last two and a half years now. I almost feel as if I'm an observer of the great pilgrimage when I bicycle past masses of people with back pack and pilgrim's staff. And I am envious. Definitely. As much as to imagine myself getting rid of the bike and throw the bags away as far as i can, buy myself a back pack and start walking instead. The Camino de Santiago de Compostela should be walked. No bicycling, no running, no horseback riding. Walking. That's final. Yes, I know some disagree with me, though it doesn't matter. And here I am. On a bicycle. Even if not exactly on, I am right beside the Camino. And should there be room for me, I'll spend my nights with the other pilgrims at the Refugio's. I keep telling myself this is only a small part of my entire route and trip. Then, all the others are walking...
Otherwise it's incredibly frustrating not being able to get the website up and running properly. Well, should you be able to read this, it is most likely back and in working condition. But it's been incredibly frustrating. My web host at home keeps telling me it's the local networks not cooperating, then personally I may admit it could have more to do with a tired and worn biker...Most likely I pressed  something I shouldn't had touched. Though, as I said, If you can read this, it must be working.

Today's stage: Estella - Villafranca Montes de Oca 137 km

Sunday, September 12th.

Just as I said yesterday, I wanted to feel what kind of shape I'm in before deciding whether to take the day off or not. I woke up after a real good night sleep with my head and body set on everything but to rest. I was really restless and felt more than ready to continue and get on my way. Before it was even proper daylight I was already packed and had climbed my bike.
The final few kilometres in France went great. The road I took went right along the coastal line and even this early in the morning there were incredibly many bicyclists out and on their way. All of them dressed up in the latest kind of equipment. Both concerning the  bicycles and the clothing. It almost made me feel as if I was a trailer when being fully packed.
When I was going to shoot the mandatory border crossing photo I was immensely disappointed. Being in the middle of Basque country of course the sign was covered completely with paint. Disappointing.
It proved itself to be a challenge for the rest of the day since, here, just as in the Finnmark every sign is written in two different languages. Spanish and Basque. The problem is, the Basque people spray paint all the Spanish names and signs. And since my map is in Spanish I had real trouble finding my way.
I  tired and gave up after having tried for a few hours, and made a quick decision. I'll re-route from my original plan to follow the Coast all the way to Santiago de Compostela. Instead I will turn South East to Estella in order to reach the Camino Frances. The same path, and road I went two years ago. I'll go by parallel roads of asphalt alongside the Camino, and  when possible spend my nights at the Refugios on the way.
Otherwise the passing week has been just fine. I can feel the 5000 kilometres on the bicycle and having been away from home for a while, though I know Spain will be awesome. As I am typing this I have close to 2000 kilometres to go. The highlight of the week was definitely having seen Odd Ingulf in Lectoure. I hope he'll arrive properly to Santiago de Compostela.

Today's stage: Ilbarritz (FR) - Estella (ES) 156 km 

Saturday, September 11th.

Checking out the map last night, I had three possible options. I could dress up in climbing equipment and cross the Pyrenees at once, today and reach Spain. Or I could go straight West, according to my original plan and take the more demanding route to St. Jean de Luz and head into Spain that way. My third option would be to go slightly to the North West along the river of Pay to Biarritz. 11 kilometres North of St. Jean de Luz. Since I've felt a touch worn out the passing week it was very tempting. And, that's the option I decided upon.
I had a great day with lovely weather along the river. And as the map said, it was more or less flat all the way out to the Atlantic Coast. I've even had a tail wind all day making the 150 kilometres a dream to bicycle. I stopped at a camping ground between Biarritz and St. Jean de Luz. It's in the middle of the tourist district at the Bay of Biscaya making it a record in expensive places to put up the tent. I shook my head in Lourdes yesterday, having to pay six and a half Euro, thinking it was rather over the top looking at what I'm usually paying. Here I had to pay seventeen. Oh well...
Tomorrow it's Sunday and when I usually have the day off. I'm going to feel what kind of shape I'm in in the morning and decide what I'll be doing. Having had the day off last Sunday I only felt more tired and worn out, and if that's the case it's to no use. In addition Spain is only two short miles away, and that is a real temptation.
As some of you have noticed, I'm having trouble making my homepage work properly. According to my web host at home, the French networks are to blame. There's really not much I can do to fix it except to say I'm sorry.

Today's stage: Lourdes - Ilbarritz 166 km
 

Friday, September 10th.
 

"God dag, god dag
dette her er meteorologisk institutt.
Vi kan melde om at regnet nå tar slutt
og det blir sol, sol, sol.
God dag, god dag..... osv."

I'm sure you all know the way a simple, often pretty silly song gets stuck inside of your head and it keeps on going, over and over again. It's impossible to get rid of it.  It doesn't matter what you do, how hard you try, it's simply stuck. And as you might get by now, I've had it in re-runs over and over all day long. The reason for it being this particular song would most likely be me, having OD'd  (over dosed) on Reiseradioen (A Norwegian Radio show) growing up, and in addition the weather today has been fantastic. For the first time I've actually felt the warmth and heat everyone talks about. "og det blir sol, sol, sol..."
Also, the road has been pretty great today too, despite a few rough hills. Then, as all bicyclists know, everything which comes up, also comes down. I set the record in speeding today with a fully packed bike by the way. (Yes Mother, I'm wearing my helmet) I'm not going to tell just how fast it went, though the old record was slightly above 75 km/h and I passed that one on an early stage. "God dag, god dag..."
Today's destination was the second big pilgrim goal, Lourdes, right down the South of France at the foot of the Pyrenees.
I arrived early this afternoon, checked out what I wanted to see, did what I had to do in the matter of a few hours. I feel Lourdes isn't  quite my cup of tea, even if it is beautiful and an important mark on the map concerning pilgrims. I'll most likely head off early tomorrow morning. I'll by then head on to the big re-route. Had I continued down South I would most likely had reached Gibraltar in about 8 - 10 days time. Instead I'll spend the same number of days going straight West before again going South. Meaning I have close to three weeks to go. "I fra Lindesnes til Hammerfest i nord...."
(I'll leave the lines of the Norwegian song without translation since it looses it's context should I decide to do have a go at it)

Today's stage: Lectoure - Lourdes 137 km

Thursday, September 9th .

Today it's been a fabulous day on my way to the South. Well, the bike ride itself hasn't been all that great, cold, wet, and windy as it's been, though towards the afternoon and evening it all went straight into my book of memories.  The reason for this being the fact that upon my arrival to the Gitte (the hostel) in Lectoure early this afternoon, Odd was already in place, well and properly installed.  It became a really sweet,  pleasant afternoon and night with lots of talking and great stories shared from Odd Ingolf's pilgrimage and my tour on the bicycle. Odd keeps up a really high speed , covering  a distance of over 30 kilometers a day. Walking, in a pretty heavy terrain. In sixteen days he has already made it through more than two thirds of the French part. All included he is going to walk just about 1550 kilometres to get his destination, Santiago de Compostela.. In other words, the same walk I did two and a half years ago. I felt a little bit envious when he told me of his experience so far. Vi had a Chinese pilgrim menu at the restaurant across the street from the hostel before calling it a night. Early tomorrow morning we will  split up again as Odd Ingolf carries on walking towards St. Jean Pied du Port and I climb my bicycle and head off towards Lourdes. I wish my pilgrim friend nothing but the best on his way. Buen Camino.

Today's stage: Bergerac - Lectoure 114 km

Tuesday, September 7th.

  Tonight I had the opportunity to try out my new Helsport tent. Almost five minutes past midnight I was wide awake due to a violent bang of thunder. The same second the sky fell open and a massive rain began and kept on for the next three hours. It eventually passed onto more of a normal capacity finally making it possible to fall back into sleep. I feared, as it lasted without end, for the tent to collapse on top of me, or at least for it to begin to leak. None of this actually happened and it was a very impressed me getting out of my sleeping bag in the morning, just as dry as the night before. The tent passed the test with flying colors. As it comes to actually having slept, not as much.
The weather stayed on the grey side all day even if there wasn't all that much rain. A few drops now and then, though none of it caused the use of my rain jacket and it stayed put inside of the bag the entire time. Until I had only an hour to go on the bike. It all begun, once again. And that's fine. There has to be something else besides sun in France.
Otherwise the area I'm cycling through right now is pretty boring and meaningless. It feels as if it's purely a distance of transport. I know though, within a day or two it will change its character once again as I close in on the Pyrenees.
There's one thing I need to begin to keep in mind. It becomes dark quickly down here. At 07.30 PM. And it stays dark until seven, seven thirty in the morning. When I arrived at Limoges earlier tonight at about nine o'clock it was as dark as can be.

Today's stage: Charost - Limoges 172 km 

Monday, September 6th.

Today I've felt thoroughly worn out, physically. I'm unsure of why really, because when arriving to Vezelay Saturday night I felt myself being in better shape than ever before. And with a day off here and there I ought to had biked in  circles around Hushovd today, but it didn't happen. My legs were numb and the loss of breath was a constant companion.
It's been a nice stage today with a bit of both up and down hill roads even if the weather has been unstable.
Trying to find somewhere to stay the night proved itself to be a challenge in itself. All of a sudden all the camping grounds where situated kilometres away, in all the wrong directions and the B & B's I checked out where all fully booked. I had to camp out in the woods. It is against the law in France, but then, what was I supposed to do? I can only hope I'll be left alone and that I'll be sleeping peacefully tonight. 

Today's stage: Vezelay - Charost 163 km 

Sunday, September 5th.

This week passed by with the speed of light. It doesn't feel as if it's been more than a few days since last time I had the day off in Lingen, Germany. Checking the bicycle computer though I see how the days, and naturally the distance, kilometres having gone by. 877 kilometres to be exact.
As most of you gathered, I passed half way, 3560 kilometres last Wednesday. Since then the weather has changed completely. The last part of this week, there's been perfect conditions of the  weather as it comes to bicycling. A clear blue sky and sunny, 26-28 degrees Celsius, a little bit of a tail wind and great surroundings and landscape.
I'm not the the most vigilant gallophile in Norway, though I have to admit the first couple of days here in France have been awesome. Of course it makes a huge difference when the weather has changed, though the terrain and the people so far have been a dream. When arriving at Vezelay last night it was time for a new stage of my trip to begin. Vezelay is, for those of you not able to know, the second most common city to begin the pilgrimage to Santiago di Compostela, if wanting to go by the French part of the route. When I started off on my pilgrimage in 2008, it was from Le Puy en Velay, the most common place to begin. From here, Vezelay, one out of four official Chemin de Saint Jacques (The road to Saint Jacob's) starts off. 
I'm not going to go completely by the Chemin, though I will most likely spend a night or two at a pilgrim hostel. To get the feel of the Camino, so to speak.
Concerning the blog, I think it goes fairly great. I've decided not waste too much time looking for wireless networks, but instead to check when pausing och when stopping for the night.  Otherwise I'm afraid it may take too much of my time and focus. Then, it may in turn result in it taking too long, since when finally checking my inbox about a week ago, it was filled with concerned and worried emails. I have to say thank you to all of you for the concern. It is nice to know this many follow me on my trip each day, and keep my well being in mind.
And while speaking of well being, I had a nice surprise when checking my Facebook account yesterday. A good friend of mine, as well as namesake, left me the following message:

"I'm deeply impressed by what you are up to, and also that you, in spite of bad weather also stay at par with your timeline. I would like to commit to making your budget a little bit easier by transferring 10 NOK a day for the period of two months and urge all friends of Dag to do the same :-)"

Thank you so much  Dag R. Aasgård, for taking  such a great initiative. Now I may actually get to eat every day...
(Yes mum, I eat each and every day, I'm just kidding...)
Today I'm simply going to relax and have a nice time here in Vezelay before setting off once again towards the South early tomorrow morning. My next destination is Lourdes and it's just about 800 kilometres away. Most likely that's where I'll be reporting from next Sunday. 

Saturday, September 4th.

Climbing my bike this morning I  knew with a fair amount of certainty how the day would end. There hasn't been all that many of those earlier on my trip. I even knew how I had to go. I was going 123 kilometres to Vezelay. That way I could manage my day as I pleased. I could bicycle quite the way I tend to, by normal, average speed and arrive early, or I could have more stops and enjoy myself. That is exactly what I did.
I've had a fantastic day in a more sculptured French landscape than before. There haven't been as many rough hills although its been a bit up and down all day. Wonderful. And the weather has been impeccable all day long.
About three miles ahead of Vezelay I met a weird kind of guy. I'll be brave enough to think he wasn't exactly a full deck of cards nor the sharpest knife in the drawer. He was a pilgrim, and stopped me when spotting the clam shell hanging from my front bag. And of course I hauled over. He told me that he, for the second time, was going to walk from his home town, Amsterdam, to Santiago de Compostela. There's nothing all that strange about it, because other Dutch do the same thing. The weird thing was the peculiar way he brought his car along. While walking...This is how he did it: He walked each day, about 30 kilometres, and took a bus, went by train or took a cab back to where he left the car in the morning. Then he drove the 30 kilometres right back again only to repeat it all once again. When I asked him why, he only replied that it's great to bring your car along...In other words, a really weird, screwed up kind of guy.
And to finish it all off, I have to give in and take it all back, everything I've said about the lack of camping grounds in France. Of course, there are none out in the countryside, where I usually am, though having bicycled 40 kilometres today on national roads there's been camping grounds high and low. There must have been twenty of them going that short a distance. So, yes, France is a fabulous country considering tourists going camping.

Today's stage: Estissac - Vezelay 123 km 

Friday, September 3rd.

Today has been the day of my dreams. The sun kept shining from a clear blue sky, no wind and a beautiful landscape to bike through. Not even  fifteen minutes after having headed off I turned right, into la province de Champagne. Obviously there had been bicyclists here before my arrival, because the asphalt was scribbled full of well known names, signatures and pro tour teams. It was sort of fun thinking two months ahead of me, the entire world elite went the same way I did on the Tour de France.
Having arrived at Reims an hour later, I had myself an hour and a half of sightseeing the town. Well, I may admit it wasn't exactly voluntary. Checking out the map it didn't look all that hard to get from one end to the other, which proved to not be the case. Again, I did see much of the city. And suddenly when beginning to imagine spending Christmas in one of the roundabouts, having almost given up all hopes of ever getting out, a Frenchman turned up, asking me if I needed some assistance. I explained, where as he turned around, saying something, one thing or the other, to his wife whom sat down at the nearest available bench with a smile. The Frenchman biked ahead of me out of Reims and onwards, getting me right back on track again. Speaking of really nice people. And all the bad things I've said about the French people.
The ride along the endless grapevines of Champagne was just as sweet as I had imagined it to be. Great road, very little traffic and plenty to see along the way. Though, it is not easy to find a place to put your tent up in France. It did end up with a Chambre d'hôtes (Bed & Breakfast) again today. I'm becoming a luxury pilgrim.

Today's stage: Brienne sur-Aisne - Estissac 167 km 

Thursday, September 2de.

This isn't meant to be some kind of "The DagEirik Test of Europe", and I'll really try not to put any country in a better light than the other. Every country has it's own charms. More or less. I admit though, I wasn't all exactly heartbrooken to be heading out of Belgium and into France. I'm sure Belgium has lots of advantages, though it sure isn't a country to be on a bicycle trip in. At least not in my experience. It was a pretty quick ride through  though.
I crossed the border at Brüly praying for good luck when heading down the highway lasting the 5 kilometres down to Rocroi. Having arrived I updated my whereabouts on the map and had something to eat. And biking over the old moat surrounding the small town I felt the warmth of the sun. Not long after, I had to strip down my clothes and for the first time during my trip I actually biked wearing short sleeves and shorts. Without getting cold. Unbelievable. It hit me I had a tail wind. A real good tail wind! It was almost unbelievable. And it wasn't even my birthday. The only thing being slightly on the downside was the  obvious lack of a single camping ground. I did eventually check into a really nice Bed and Breakfast though with all facilities. It wasn't even all that expensive. All together it was great after a few freezing, cold nights inside a soaking wet tent.
Early tomorrow morning I'll be bicycling into Champagne.

Today's stage: Bambois (BE) - Brienne sur-Aisne (FR) 157 km

Wednesday, September 1st.

Today I, as the golf term say, rounded the first nine. It means I'm halfway on my trip. And to stay within the golfer's language, I´m on par. Before leaving I said I'll use two months for the entire tour, and according to Google Maps it would entail 7120 kilometres. The first 3650 took me one month and two hours to complete. I am two hours behind a schedule for two months, as Jordsett would had put it. I should be able to catch up on two hours.
Otherwise bicycling in Belgium is quite different than to do so in the Netherlands. First off the bicycle lanes disappeared a few miles into Belgium, and secondly the standard of the roads altogether, and especially the shoulders of the roads are in a horrible condition. There are holes in the asphalt making you have a hard time finding your way out again. In addition the traffic is in full force and speed just centimetres away from you. I tried a road less trafficked and it lead to me, literally getting on the ground itself. I had a more than accurate show of Belgian agriculture, at the same time as getting back to right where I came from in the first place, almost. The excitement of the highway is to be preferred.
It's been completely flat today as well, though the last few hours the terrain begun to curl a little once again. And, after a week in Northern Germany and the Netherlands it really doesn't matter all that much. You do get bored eventually when it's flat all the time.
The weather has been fantastic all day. Fair enough, it was a touch chilly this morning and before none though the sun has been present all day. This afternoon I biked up a hill and into a small village and it hit me, it was really quite warm. Inside the village a digital thermometer showed 17 degrees Celsius.

Today's stage: Leopoldsburg - Bambois 137 km

Tuesday, August 31st.

I had an exceptionally bad night with little to no sleep at all. Perhaps I can put the blame on me having spoiled myself with nice hostels last week, maybe I can put the blame on the cold freezing nights sleeping in a tent nowadays, or perhaps all the boats passing in the nearby channel all night with full speed ahead. I have no idea. I slept poorly. And I've been tired all day. None the less I've enjoyed myself. I've bicycled between the two largest cities in the Netherlands today, Nijmegen and Eindhoven, and it went as smooth as can be. Well, apart from it taking a lot of time of course. I don't think I'm exaggerating when saying I must have passed by at least 50 stop lights in each the city. And most of them really had the red lights on. In other words, I've spent half my day waiting for a green light. And on my way into Nijmegen I experienced something completely new on my behalf. There was a queue in the bikers lane leading into the city. A real, up close morning rush hour. Being the bicycle freak I am I found this to be completely awesome.
Later on in the afternoon it was again time for another crossing of a border. The Netherlands are done in a little less than 24 hours, and Belgium stands next in line. I highly doubt it will take me days here.
Either way I'll have myself an early night tonight.

Today's stage:  Nijmegen (NL) - Leopoldsburg (BE) 120 km 

Monday, August 30th.

I immediately felt the day off yesterday did wonders to both body and soul, and after having spent a few hours on the bike I was ready for a new crossing of the border in Denekamp. and of course, it began to rain the second the front wheel touched Belgian ground. Luckily enough it didn't last very long. I paused for some coffee and a large slice of apple pie ( after all, it's important to make sure you get enough fruit each day...) at the old borderline cafe. It wasn't as crowded as I remembered it, though the coffee still tasted as great.
As I said, the rain eventually gave up and after an hour I could once again pack the rain gear back down into the bags. Fair enough, there was a few heavy rainfalls during the day, where as I had the fortune of finding shelter each time.
In the small city of Goor, I stopped and had a full service of the bicycle. I had to have the gears changed, and of course the adjustment work the German mechanic messed up had to be taken care of. That alone took over an hour to fix. The end result was good though.
It was fantastic to bicycle through the Netherlands. The roadsigns were great, impossible to go wrong (almost...), and the bicycle lanes were the size of a good Norwegian highway. And in addition, it's really, really flat.  Then, yes, it is windy in the Netherlands, and it's not without a fair cause is known for all its windmills, but I was lucky enough to have a side wind and not as much headwind hitting me.
At the end of the day I was fooled to go the completely wrong way trying to follow the roadsigns to a camping ground right outside of Arnhem. This ended up with a side trip of 12-13 kilometres and I didn't even find it. All I could do was to turn South and hope for better luck next time. And I did, even though next time consisted in a very late night, and a very dark one when I finally set the tent up right outside of Nijmegen.

Today's stage: Lingen (DE) - Nijmegen (NL) 173 km

Sunday, August 29th.

Yet another week of my trip has gone by. And it's been a rough week, with lots of real bad weather and a body beginning to feel the pressure. Well, yes, there are reasons to be had, of course... Then the week became quite a long one since my day to relax and rest, the day off last week was already on Friday, not Sunday. I've felt myself beginning to become torn and weary against the wind the last few days.
This week too had a underlining marked by all the fantastic people I've met. Everywhere I go, I meet people wanting to help out, without me really asking for it. Of course, I am grateful for everything. The man in Kolding offering a bed for the night since the hostel supposedly was full. Hilke and Olaf in Schleswig helping me along and setting me up with a room. The man I met on the ferry across the channel of Bremer, on a bad day, taking care of the fair across and joining me on his bicycle to Die Jugendherberge Hude. And all of a sudden, the day once again became so much better. Yes, I could had mentioned it all in a bunch, although the  important thing is, this is it, the trip itself. This is what makes it an adventure. Of course, experiencing nature, pretty little cities and villages is important too, though what makes the difference, makes it worth the hard effort to go by bicycle instead of driving a car or a motorcycle is the people.
There is still a steady flow of email from near and far. It's fantastic! It gives me great joy when my mail server tells me: "Downloading 1 out of 32 emails..." I'm trying my very best to reply to everyone, though it happens that it takes a little time. My newly made friends in Schleswig sent me a wonderful greeting.:
""Fahr immer nur so schnell, wie dein Schutzengel fliegen kann! ("Only ride as fast as your guardian angel can fly!")
It's beautiful, isn't it?

Early tomorrow morning, there's yet another borderline awaiting me.  I'm crossing the border to the Netherlands at the old crossing at Denekamp. It will be very  special to me. At one time, in the late eighties I was in my truck at, yes, Denekamp when a bicyclist on tour, fully equipped and packed crossed the border in front of me. I remember it as if it was yesterday. He had a recumbent bicycle and a Danish flag. I remember thinking to myself he must be completely out of his mind having biked his way from Denmark to the Netherlands. Then, the more thought I gave it, the more fascinated I became. I thought about this often and for a long time. It ended up in a dream of, maybe, one day go by bicycle from the North Cape to Gibraltar. Tomorrow it's my turn to cross the very same borderline. Fair enough, with a Norwegian flag and on a regular bicycle but  heading towards Gibraltar. Going by the Microsoft Autoroute there's still 3905 kilometres left. And plenty of intriguing people to meet.

Saturday, August 28th.

It's been a perfectly fine, even if a bit on the boring side day on the bicycle. Two hours after having set off from Hude I turned into Bundestrasse 213 from Alhorn heading towards Denekamp. A road, as  well known amongst truck drivers as the E-18. The shortest route getting to the Netherlands from up North. Nowadays I would believe most choose the highway a few miles South, though the old two liner sure was trafficked enough. I met two Norwegian trucks carrying flowers and almost ruined my arm while waving frantically. It isn't the world's most exciting route to bike along.
When seeking refugee in a bus stop as another heavy rainfall came down at me, I suddenly noticed there was not one, but three broken spokes on the back wheel. I haven't got a clue as to how long they've been broken, then they didn't look as if it has been any time recently. Luckily enough I had brought along exactly three spare ones, and since having built the wheels myself, my knowledge is pretty good in exchanging them. For fun I clocked myself right from the moment the bags were removed until it was all finished, the bags back in place on the bike and the wheel back and in order once again. Just about 9 minutes. Not too shabby.
The original plan was to cross the Dutch border at some point today. A pretty rough headwind, and the uncertainty of finding somewhere to stay the night made me feel rather safe than sorry and  stay in Lingen on the German side of the border. I had a bit of an ordeal finding the hostel. Eventually though I did discover it. A great hostel situated by a big park and stuff. The only thing being on the downside is that it's pretty far outside of town. Maybe that's a good thing though. My body needs the rest much more than a tour of the town right now.

Tomorrow it's Sunday and a day of relaxation. I need it.

Today's stage : Hude - Lingen 133 km 

Friday, August 27th.

  Today has been the heaviest day, mentally, so far during my trip. It's been "one of those days".  I awakened in Stade only to face a heavy boost of rain. My obvious lack of willpower was already making itself present. Late, more than an hour after my usual time to rise and shine I gathered myself together and headed off to begin the wet and cold day ahead of me. A few kilometres outside of Stade I ran into a mechanic "mishap". If the case is "Lucky 2" ( the bicycle) too finds the weather being a little bit too much I don't know. Regardless there was a strange noise from the wire of the brakes. All I could do was to get down on my hands and knees in spite of the rain to try and find the root of the problem.
I quickly realised it was the front brake being the issue. Fair enough, it's been troublesome since it tore off when I was on my way to the North Cape four weeks ago. Luckily enough I had a spare and changed it, although adjusting it has given me a hard time ever since. Now, as it was completely wrecked, I decided to bring Lucky 2 to the nearest available bicycle doctor I could find. And this is what I did. He changed the wire, exactly as I asked him to, and pretty soon he told me everything was back in order again and I could head off to Spain. It would prove itself to be a slight exaggeration. The bicycle mechanic sure couldn't adjust any front brakes. What he did was to simply enough lock it into the heaviest position. Now that's nowhere to go. Once again I had to get down on my hands and knees trying to fix it at the best of my ability with my fingers having been frozen stiff.
At one o'clock, I was not even half the distance I usually am this time of day. I decided to stop for some comfort food at a diner by the road.  I ordered a Jegerschnitzel, one of my favorite dishes. When it arrived my fingers were completely numb and stiff due to the cold rain and I couldn't even grip the knife and fork. Imagine my embarrassment when having to, in stuttering German, ask the waitress to please be kind enough to slice and cut the meat up. Talk about feeling like a fool... The food was good though. If it gave any comfort to speak of is the question. Later in the day I had a slice of cake as well, which didn't really help my case all that much regarding comfort.
Maybe it was written in the cards, though today's stage was fairly short.

Today's stage: Stade - Hude (at Oldenburg) 109 km 

Thursday, August 26th.

Having experienced a few days of head wind, this morning my legs told me I could use some calm, relaxing days on the bicycle. And guess what? As I came outside it was as close to no wind as it can, and may be! And thinking back on last years tour, I did remember today's distance was an easy one. It was fantastic to have a day , in biker language, washing it all out. What it means is that you have your legs pump, work with the least possible effort, as to wash away and get rid off all the residue within the muscles. Strictly speaking, I could use both two and three days of "washing out" right now, then I'll have to appreciate them as they come.
Last night I thought I'd be going by the same route as last year, for a day or two. I did, to some extent. as far as in arriving at Glückstadt I chose to go along a route being a  little bit more on the easy side, even if demanding  more of an effort reading the map. (Although saying so myself, after all my years as a truck driver, I  know how to read a road map). The conclusion was to go by ferry twice today, crossing two rivers. The first one across the channel of North Ostsee. A crossing lasting almost four minutes. The ferry actually came to get me, only me, when the Captain spotted me coming along, riding my bike.
The crossing of Elbe, West of Hamburg,  is a little bit longer. There was a long row of cars awaiting when I arrived, then I was the first in line on board at the departing ferry. You have to get some advantages...
Once being on the Southern shore of Elbe I could feel a slight change in the air. At the same time, dark clouds was building up in the horizon. I decided, there and then to let Stade become today's destination, with high hopes of reaching it before a possible storm hit. And I did.
This far into Germany, two things I have a hard time finding. The first is camping grounds, the second  wireless networks. In other words, lots of hostels and not as much writing on my blog. The hunt continues though...

Today's stage: Schleswig - Stade 140 km 

Wednesday, August 25th.

Today, the weather has been much nicer. At least it's been less wet, more on the dry side. The wind has been about the same, though apart from a couple of times with rain coming down hard earlier today, soaking me completely, it's been, for the most part a day without rain.
At about three o'clock today I crossed borderline number four, this far on my trip and biked my way into Germany. The next few days I will, I believe, most likely go by the same route as when biking to Rome last year. A funny thing hitting me is the distance between Tönsberg, through the passage of Great St. Bernard, to Rome is almost accurately the same length as the distance of the North Cape route, through Vadstena, to Schleswig where I am today. This means I'm bicycling longer than I ever have done before now, on the one and the same trip.
Arriving at Sleschwig I had to stop at Lidl and fill up my supplies of groceries. Once being finished I spotted an Imbiss, a German food stand and I simply couldn't resist a "pommes" with ketchup. I exchanged a few words with the owner and he became fascinated enough with my tour as to jump inside of his car, bringing me along with him to take both of us to the local hostel, setting me up with a room for the night and dropping me right off with my bike as it was all fixed. Now that it proper service. Thank you so much Olaf and Hilke at Imbiss am Schliekieker in Schleswig.

Today's stage: Kolding (DK) - Schleswig (DE) 130 km 

Tuesday, August 24th.

Poking my nose outside of the hostal early this morning, I quickly realised today would become quite the challenge. The rain fell hard and it didn't fall down but instead it came straight across at me. In addition to the rain you see, the wind came in sideways.The owner of the hostel himself, Ole, as Danish as can be, said the wind was "rigtig slæm" (downright loathsome). On days like this I do know from experience, you'll simply have to forget about of how far you want to go, and how fast you want to get there. The trick is to dress up in all the rain gear you need, lock yourself in inside your own little bubble and have no other goals than to stay on the bicycle as long as everything feels great enough. Time and distance be what may. The hardest part is to not stress out when you come to a stand still in the roughest throws of wind. Eventually during the afternoon the rain stopped, kind of. By that I mean it no longer was a constant, though in between it came down hard. As a special bonus the storm turned to catch me more from the side than coming straight at me.
Yes, I know I mentioned at an earlier stage I'll not say another word concerning the weather, although I had to mention it today since it's been by far the worst day of really nasty weather during my trip. And then some.
Next time something like this comes my way I think I'll declare my very own state of emergency and stay indoors. I think...

Today's stage: Viborg - Kolding 131 km

Monday, August 23rd.

Today I had a revelation. Or rather, I learned something anew. I'll get back to that particular dawning of mine.
I arrived country number four, Denmark, in a black as can be darkness last night. Dark enough for it to be really challenging to bike the few kilometres taking me to the camping ground of Fredrikshavn. With a headlight and a fair share of luck I did get there, somehow. 
I woke up early after a bad night of sleep. It was a cold night, and I was freezing to some part, and also there's a full moon ahead and that always affects my sleeping habits. Anyways, I was back on two wheels straight after 07.00 am ready for a promising ,even if chilly, day in Denmark. The sky was almost clear and even if there was a breeze it was nowhere like Magerøya three weeks ago. Then, of course, Denmark and wind is a safe a bet as a New Year sale in January. Even when experiencing a head wind, the bicycle is considerably easier on the road now with the hanger left behind and parked at home. This increases the speed with two, three kilometres an hour. All of a sudden I use two hours less when bicycling my 140-150 kilometres a day. It's a great advantage.
Being in Hobro, with 36 kilometres left before arriving to Viborg the good weather ended. It all begun with a few drops of rain now and then although it did not take long before it came down hard. It was by then my new learning experience came about. 

Read and learn:
When being wet, thoroughly soaked on the inside and out, thinking there is no way to become any more soaked than you already are? You are wrong. You can become much, much more soaked. Even without a bathing suit. When having a shower afterwards and the water feels as if you're blow drying yourself. Then you've been utterly, completely soaking wet. I was when arriving Viborg and went straight passed the camping ground heading for the hostel instead. I'm going to spend the night here, in something right now more reminding myself of a drying room than a sleeping area. I hope I'll be here all by myself. 

Today's stage: Frederikshavn - Viborg 156 km 

Sunday, August the 22nde.

Late last night I had someone coming to visit me. Kerstin arrived from Larvik with a new tent and a sleeping bag. Well, not new as in new, though other ones than those I've brought along so far. First and foremost taking up less space and being lighter in weight. The reason for this being me wishing to slim down the gear as much as possible for the upcoming and remaining  5000 kilometres. And it was successful. The end result being great enough for me to send Kerstin back home again with two big bags containing "cold at night stuff" and the hanger of the bicycle. The hanger has been great, being both to great use and joy. The thing is though, all and everything being hooked up to the bike works in the wrong direction going up hill. And it, once again, makes it tougher to keep up a decent average speed . We will have to see what the result of this will be.
I noticed at an early stage today I was a little bit on the restless side after having had the day before off in Vadstena and I was eager to head down South. I had a bit of a challenge at hand though in getting to Gothenburg.
Arriving to Jönköping yesterday I realised the part of my maps showing the way to Gothenburg was missing. If I had lost it on the way, or if it was left behind at home with the rest of them, I have no idea. In any case, it was missing. I did, at that point, take a chance and biked the busy, trafficked Highway 40 towards Ulricehamn. It all went fine, so far. I knew though, between here and Gothenburg there's a lot of highway only allowing Class A traffic. Without a proper map, and a road not allowing any bicycles I had no choice but to let myself go by car that part of the stretch. As much comfort as it may be, I did the day before setting off towards the North Cape, against the plan, go  by bicycle from Honningsvål to the North Cape plateau without the bike computer. I had kilometres to play with up my sleeve.
Technically speaking, it means I am right now on board Stena Line on the way to my third boarder crossing. Since having crossed the border between Finland and Sweden thirteen days ago I've travelled about 1850 kilometres on more or less decent Swedish  asphalt. It has, at some points, been a rough road to go. The immensely boring Inlandsvägen. Bad weather. A tiresome cold. What I think I'll remember the most would be all the intriguing people I've met on the way.
Later tonight I'll arrive at Fredrikshavn in Denmark. And I have two thirds of my trip ahead of me. In many ways I can feel it is now the trip and my adventure truly begins. I am excited. 

Today's stage: Ulricehamn - Gothenburg 93 km

Saturday, August 21st.

Early this morning when waking up and looking out the window the weather was just about the same as yesterday. Well, I think it was a bit more cloudy, but the flags outside of the center of pilgrims looked more like chip boards than resembling flags. In other words, the wind is at least as bad today as it was the day before.
Luckily enough though, I think, both Vadstena and Gibraltar are two things staying somewhat in place. And as simple as can be, I have to be the object bound to move in order to get to my final destination.
After having had breakfast as well as this and that I once again climbed my bicycle and headed towards Spain. Fair enough, today's goal was to reach Ulricehamn but it is, after all, a couple of miles closer to Spain.
And there was wind, pins and needles of it. On a positive note, I have to say it was the only condition of weather being stable all day. Because suddenly it began to rain. And the sun decided to shine. Rain gear off, rain gear back on again, off and on, and..Well, you get the point. When the last boost of rain began and with only 20 kilometres remaining before reaching Ulricehamn I no longer could care less. Blow me away I thought. I no longer care about the rain. It begun to really, really rain. A good old, proper Southern rain. Leaving me no choice but to once again get into my rain gear after all.
Arriving I was pretty pleased I'll not be sleeping in  my tent but in a cabin tonight. And tomorrow I have yet another day off. 

Today's stage: Vadstena - Ulricehamn 156 km 

Friday, August 20th.

The day off in Vadstena.
The sun is shining and there is a southern wind. In other words, it's a perfect day to let the bike rest and thoroughly enjoy the village of Vadstena. I've explored the narrow streets and walked the yard of the monastery. I've been to the abbey several times. I've eaten great food and I've been people-watching. In other words, I've been a proper tourist all day. And I have enjoyed myself immensely. I've not as much as touched my bicycle as it stands locked up outside the center of pilgrims.
It's been a long time since I've had the same peace within such as I do in this village. It is almost a shame I can't stay for a week or two. I'll have plenty of opportunity for that at another time. I don't think it is impossible for me to one day return and stay as a volunteer at the center. It would feel great to be able to give something back.
Tomorrow it is Saturday and the adventure continues to where the Euro rules. Although not too fast.Tomorrow it is already Sunday and a day  to relax. This is really beginning to get comfortable... 

Wednesday, August 18th.

I woke up in a toke as thick as a blanket. It was thick enough for me to be considerably concerned for my safety, even using  both a blinking light and wearing a safety west along the highway in the midst of morning traffic. Although as it passed 11 am it cleared away and the day became beautiful. Not that the sun honored with its presence but both wind and temperature were perfectly fine for a day on the bicycle. Otherwise nothing happened. That is how things can be on a tour as long as mine. Some days simply are. Things can't  happen, not every day.
It hit me, as the day went on, I'm really getting into great shape. the price is not high, physically, to keep on riding the bike all day. The bicycle itself is way too heavy.  A quick count: the bicycle itself weighs 12 kg, the hanger 3 kg, the  luggage 25 kg, food 3 kg, water 4 l/kg. The approximated weight would end up at 47 kg. About 40 kilos more than Lance Armstrongs bike...
Today's destination was Kumla,  South of Örebro. Although when arriving the camping ground was, same as yesterday, closed for the season. This time it was really closed , with a massive lock and chain. All I could do was to continue. Right outside of Åsbro I found a nice place to put my tent up.
 

Today's stage: Ludvika - Åsbro 166 km

Tuesday, August 17th.

Exactly 08.09 early this morning, I turned off the E 45 and Inlandsvägen into highway 70 towards Borlänge. To me, it was  perfectly fine after 1250 kilometres through woods of  birch, spruce and pine. The Inlandsväg makes a great road of transportation although the value of entertainment would score less than none, almost. Now it is over and done with, thankfully enough.
In Rättvik I had to make a quick stop to buy some bread and get some cash. At the local minibank I fell into a conversation with two interesting guys from Elverum and completely forgot the time. We spoke long enough for me to almost forget about the bread entirely. After a while I  headed back onto the road once again with my bread and money to continue towards every man's dream. You see, a few kilometres ahead I arrived at Insjön. Insjön is famous of one thing, and one thing only. This is the place were Claes Ohlsson begun his business. Here it is, the one,  the first and the largest world wide, Claes Ohlsson shop. Blaming the urgent  need of oil for my bike I gifted myself with a fair hour up and down the aisles filled with mancandy. Of course I had both this and that in my arms as well as the oil once I was doe. I'm only human, after all...
Having wasted this much of my time I decided Borlänge and 100 kilometres would be enough for today. When I did arrive a few hours later the wind was in my favor and I simply could not convince myself to stop. Therefore I ended up with another 60 kilometres before stopping for the night in Ludvika. In the last slope down into town, by the way, a wasp ended up inside of my helmet. I don't think I realised what it was until I got stung. At that point, I did get it......
Arriving at the camping ground it was closed for the season. Well, well...a night free of charge.

Today's stage: Mora - Ludvika 159 km

 

Monday, August 16th.

Tonight I had a foretaste of fall. I shivered and couldn't keep warm in the tent. Stepping outside for a minute or so around 6 am I understood why. The thermometer hanging on the wall of the toilets showed a temperature of 4 degrees Celsius. Fair enough, above zero, not below, but anyhow. It is after all mid August. Enough of this.
To begin with I need to tell you about the most service minded man in Sweden. When going  hunting for a wireless network last night I passed through the tourist office in Sveg in order to get a few pointers. While being inside I met one of the most pleasant, accommodating persons I've met. Not only did he set me up with a network, he also served me coffee and took the time to sit down and have a long chat. Most definitely the right man in the right place. In other words? Next time you're in Sveg...you'll know.
Today's stage has been more up and down hill  than before along the E 45 and Inlandsvägen. The long, smooth uphill slopes I've been speaking of, no longer are as smooth. They are just as long though. Combined with not having slept enough by far last night, it made today's breaks pretty frequent. Honestly I've been pretty much worn down. I did though, without too much of an effort, reach Mora, today's destination well before dinner was ready to be served  by the chef.
As of right now I have 370 kilometres left before reaching Vadstena. It's too much and too long a distance to split into two days and I might as well make it in three days with less a  distance. I'll simply wait and see what the circumstances are the next few days and take it from there.  My plan is to stay at least one day in Vadstena before continuing  to either Gothenburg och Varberg. Taking the ferry from Varberg instead of Gothenburg makes it one day  less on the road in Denmark. Being in Vadstena it really does not matter, lenght wise, from what point I decide to take the ferry. Strictly speaking, this would mean I'll spend all week, once again, in Sweden. That is perfectly fine. I do quite enjoy spending time in the company of the Swedes..

PS. Today the chef au cuisine served a smoking hot Soup of Goulash with a slight dash of Gnocchi. (Yes mum, I get enough to eat.)
 

Today's stage: Sveg - Mora 145 km

Sunday, August 15th.

Well,  now the second  week on my journey towards sun and warmth is over.  To my surprise I realise I've cycled 890 kilometres the last six days. That would make it an average of over 148 kilometres a day. Through rain, wind, with a body not being in the best shape the last few days. A lot of the reason of me making such progress is without doubt all the wonderful greetings and regards I receive from many of you. I have been thinking, should Doping Norway test me after I've read through my email, i would without a doubt become suspended for two years. At least. i know it may sound weird, but it is simply the way it is. The greetings gives me an extraordinary inspiration and will to keep fighting the wind.
Many of you also describe your dreams and plans of doing something similar and I think it is awesome I can make a difference and to some part be an inspiration. I've also received feedback from a couple of firms and businesses following me on my way. One of them I decided to share with all of you, since I found it being really positive and nice. And of course re posted with permission of the writer.

"This is a great achievement Dag! We would like to support you in doing this and we follow you on your way each day. We are aware of your budget being 350 NOK a day and nothing more apart from that. The inspiration and feedback  you give us 'bloggers' each day means we would like to sponsor you. Although, with a few conditions to fulfill: If you keep your blog updated during 80% of your trip and in reaching your final destination (Gibraltar) we will sponsor you with the amount of 2500 NOK courtesy of Leverance A/S. The presumption for this is you doing something similar within 12 months of having reached your ending point and goal at Gibraltar and to use our logo on your clothing/gear."

Now, this was not the motivation for my trip to begin with, although I feel the feedback from Leverance A/S was great and I agreed to and accepted the challenge, of course with the supposed agreement I'll have a budget at hand. Should anyone else feel inspired to follow the example of Leverance A/S feel free to contact me...

The latest report from home is that there's only five copies left of my  book describing my walk to Santiago de Compostela, "..og stien må vi alle gå alene." It is printed in a limited edition only and it will not be reprinted in more editions. The price is 150 NOK plus shipping and can be ordered at post@dageirik.no

Now to get back to my trip. The weather has been almost the same as during my first week. In other words much rain and a lot of wind. The last two days it has changed to some degree. It is still windy although much more pleasant. It still rains a little bit now and then. The temperature on the other hand is way different. Instead of it being freezing all day long I lately tend to be cold only for a few hours at a time. Now that is a huge improvement! Otherwise I did catch a cold and had a temperature for  a day or so,  though not as much as it having stopped me from getting back on the road again, having taken an antipyretic or two. 
The week has been gifted by many really nice people coming my way to have a chat. Especially the attachment to my bicycle catches  a lot of attention. And of course, seeing I am all alone with my bike makes people dare to talk to me.
One of those leaving the greatest impression on me was a Finnish former sailor coming my way at the camping ground at Vojmön. He showed apparent signs of having endured a  lot of hard times in his lifetime and spoke of a rough life being homeless in Helsingfors (Helsinki), Oslo and even in Larvik. I offered him half my dinner and he accepted as well as offered me a Finnish shot of liquor. 80 % hard liquor mixed with Finnish beer. I most humbly declined...Pekka, and yes, it was actually his name, Pekka, dreamt of owning his own sailing boat taking him around the world. It has to be made of steel though, he said. Otherwise it will not stay in one piece as it gets rammed into shore. Well well I thought to myself, with Pekka steering the boat it might be forced to withstand both this and that. " Life is strange" I heard him say to speaking to himself as I crawled back into my tent. Most likely it was the most sane words Pekka had spoken all evening.

Tomorrow a brand new week of my trip starts and during it I should be arriving at my first sub target, Vadstena. I'm counting on leaving Sweden after having been there, either right before or after the next proper day of rest, and break of the week.

 

Saturday August 14th.

The fog was thick in Östersund as I stuck my head outside the flaps of the tent for the first time around 6 am. I'm used to it by now, and was over all pleased to see the treetops stay fairly still. Fog, I'd take any day.An hour later I was back on the road again. With the only goal for the day to have a great time on my bike. After all, it was Saturday and I had the day off tomorrow. Because of my somewhat bad shape a few days earlier I was ok with not getting as far as planned this week. The original plan was to get as far as to Sveg, although I still had over 180 kilometres to go in order of getting there.
So, on I went, feeling pretty quickly that today was easy. And according to the plan, I stopped often, taking both shorter and longer breaks. Well, mostly short ones during the first hours. Around ten o'clock the sun began to shine.
In Åsarna it was time for the first longer break. Åsarna is the home village of one of Sweden's great heroes, Thomas Wassberg. And it shows more than well in the local roadhouse. The walls were covered in pictures of the skier. Showcased and on display were both skis and ski poles as well as everything ever imagined the man having touched. And also they have the best coffee and buns to be had along the E45. I know, I have been here before.
When once again climbing my bike I noticed I still had 110 kilometres to go before reaching Sveg. It came to mind, the thought although I quickly fought it off. Today I was supposed to simply enjoy, even though there is a limit to that as well. Then, such was the day ahead with kilometres and miles simply disappearing behind me, and before I knew it the evening came along and I arrived at the parking lot behind the grocery store Ica in Sveg. And I was hardly worn out at all.. Although I was incredibly pleased with myself.
 

  Today's stage: Östersund - Sveg 186 km

Friday, August 13th.

A Swedish family of six, two grown ups  with four  small children within the age gap of 7 to 1 years of age, had the fight of the year in the tent next to mine right in the middle of the camp of Strömsund last evening/night. It all begun quite early with the smallest one probably being overly tired and exhausted. Well, everybody having had children knows what it is like. This set off an ever so small argument between dad and one of the other kids. Which in turn fired the mother off completely. If it was the children or her husband she was angry at was impossible to tell, but she was furious. Without a doubt. And off it went. Mum and dad arguing with loud voices whith all four kids screaming their hearts out. I am unsure of the origin of that particular saying, screaming ones heart out, though that is exactly what took place. It was more than enough. Luckily enough it became quiet after quite a while , and I almost had fallen asleep when the small one awoke once again. And off everything went, all over again. I can't help but to ask, why on earth does people like these go on camping trips? Are they not aware of the fact the "walls" of a tent are as thin as the finest paper. Hello! Tents aren't soundproofed! And, by the way, a four person tent was not built for a family of six. Phew...I simply had to get it out of my system.

I've been incredibly tired today. ( I can not imagine why?) Believe it or not, I almost fell asleep on one of the many long, smooth slopes of  Inlandsvägen. I am ashamed to admit, I have experienced being incredibly sleepy while driving a car although never on a bicycle. What a weird feeling.
I yawned myself through 70 kilometres until it was time for a longer break. If it had anything to do with today's date or not I'll leave untouched and unspoken of, though the bicycle hit the ground with full force. Well, without me on it of course. The result there of being a wrecked, and cut off wire of the bicycle computer counting every single kilometre of my trip. Fair enough I only had 40 kilometres left ahead of me before reaching Östersund where I could find myself another one.
It means though, getting a new counter, and starting all over again from scratch...Oh well. The old one had reached 1372 kilometres and then 40 more reaching Östersund.
Dinner tonight consisted of hamburgers and as dessert, two Ibux.

 Today's stage: Strömsund - Östersund 111 km

Thursday, August 12th.

The most amazing things happen when being on a trip this long. Yesterday I was in a real bad shape, imagining myself forced into a few days of bed rest back inside of my tent. Two Ibux later and after having had a good nights sleep I woke up completely rested. Well, almost. I quite honestly felt really alert. Well, almost. My throat still feels a little bit soar although I don't have a temperature. When I begun today's bicycling I felt everything fall into its right place.
The kilometres disappeared beneath me and before I knew it I was in Wilhelmina. There I had both coffee and a "fralla" (french roll), as well as a quick shopping spree before once again hitting the road, with a slight wind coming at me, heading down South.
Once again I came to a pause, in Dorotea. Here I met a nice couple from the Gothenburg-area whom planned doing Sweden on their bicycles lengthwise next year. The husband owned a bicycle shop and offered to fix and repair any and everything possibly being needed concerning my bicycle. Right there and then. I most humbly declined considering everything really works  just fine.
Upon leaving Dorotea, heading into Jämtland there was a fair rain, only a few drops. I chose not to put on a full rain suit, betting my money on the chance of it to not become anything more than that. I was right.
The ride has been real smooth all day,and even if having had a few long breaks I arrived at today's goal about an hour before scheduled. Luckily enough, I might add, since half an hour after having set my tent up, the  heaviest rain came right at me. The worst so far during my trip, and that is quite something.  Now it is the time for much better conditions of the weather. I believe it to be time.

Today's stage: Volgsele - Strømsund 151 km

Wednesday, August 11th.

I begun my day by getting up at 08.00 am, putting an end to a night filled of coughing. The last few days of cold, wet weather obviously begins to take its toll on me. Honestly, its’t not surprising it would end up with me catching a minor  cold. It was more a question of when, not if. Now is the time.
Either way I left Sorsele with the clouds drifting across the sky hoping to make it into Wilhelmina, 140 kilometres South before nightfall.
Right before arriving to Storuman a hard rain fell soaking me completely before having even the slightest chance putting my rain suit on. And not long after having put it on, of course the rain stopped.Well, it came off, again. It all becomes a habit...so on, so forth. I changed into a sports shirt still not being wet, although my shoes and shorts were wet and cold. Again. Alongside the cold, even if not as  hard, Southern wind came along after a while. It dawned upon me bit by bit that the day would become rough, and Wilhelmina being too far way down South today. I was right.
About 25 kilometres ahead I spotted a camping ground. It took me probably less than three seconds to decide to stop for the day and fall straight into my sleeping bag with coughing pills and antipyretics within my grasp. Then we'll see what the night, and not the least the morning brings as it comes to germs and what not. Worst case scenario I may have to stay within my sleeping bag for a few days until my  fever has broken. Though, being a hopeless optimist, once I am on a trip I set my hopes up for everything being great again tomorrow morning. I may have to cut the next few days a little bit short lengthwise, time alone will tell.

Today's stage: Sorsele - Volgsele 115 km
 

Tuesday, August 10th.

I slept like a log last night and woke up as rested as can be, looking forward to a sunny day and as little wind as possible. Everything was as made for a sweet day along the Swedish Inlandsvägen. Out of one reason or the other my head was not present today. After only an hour on the road I was out of it. Really, really out of it. Maybe it was the monotony, endless plains of the Inlandsväg taking their toll on. I don't know. What I do know is that days like this will appear now and then along the way. If they'll appear sooner, or later for that matter, I have no idea, although they will come. Luckily this kind of days will be quickly forgotten.
Upon arriving to Arvidsjaur after three and a half hour on the bike, I was about ready to give in for the day. Even though I only made it through less than half a day's stage. I bought myself some food, ate a bar of chocolate, had myself a cup of coffee with a refill before finding the library and a wireless network.
A whole bunch of emails from near and far dropped in, and all of a sudden I felt the will to continue come back to me. It that isn't inspiration I don't know what is!
I intended to say a few words concerning Swedish roadwork, after having finished off with 16 kilometres on rough, sharp and crushed stone with my heart caught in my throat. I'll leave it at that for now.
The chef's menu of today consisted of a delightful chanterelle soup with coiled pasta.

Today's stage: Moskosel - Sorsele 141 km

The crossing of the Arctic Circle.

There's nothing easy about being dyslectic in the Finnmark.